2019 is the ripest wine of the three, landing at 12.4 per cent alcohol, and it was the most complicated growing season we’ve seen by some margin. Yields were down by half, and you can feel that on the palate in the form of more volume and texture. The wine is still crisp and refreshing, but there’s more body and the salinity of the finish seems to be amped up a notch. It’s the wine I know the least well as it wasn’t bottled that long ago, so we’re still getting acquainted. I’m especially pleased that the aromas remain very classical in profile, testament to our efforts at sorting out any botrytis in the vineyard and on the sorting table. One of the things we hoped to demonstrate with this project is how one can take fruit from an under-the-radar region that isn’t often exactly pampered in the winery and do interesting things to it with the right attention to detail and the right techniques, and the 2019 might be the vintage that best exemplifies that.
- W.K., January 2021